Jack points - Yesterday's Tractors (2025)

(800) 853-2651

Shop Now

TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Massey Harris Minneapolis Moline Kubota / Yanmar

TRACTOR MANUALS

Allis Chalmers	Case	Farmall IH	Ford 8N,9N,2N	Ford
Ferguson	John Deere	Massey Ferguson	Minn. Moline	Oliver

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forums >

Tractors >

Jack points

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register

Author

howard

06-22-2003 18:41:36

Report to Moderator

I've read all the posts about jacks and stands and still don't know exactly where to place my jack. Suppose I just want to take off a front wheel for repair. Where Do I place the jack and where do I place the jack stand? Same question for removing a rear wheel. I was going to purchase a bottle type jack. Is this sufficient as long as I have one that will support the weight? What height jack should I purchase?
My tractor is a Ford 2N. A photo showing jack placement would really be helpful if anyone can direct me to where I can view one.
Thank you

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Willy-N

06-23-2003 08:17:07

Report to Moderator

Re: jack points in reply to howard, 06-22-2003 18:41:36

I know you know this but just in case make sure when you block with wood you cross the grain with the weight. You can split wood going with the grain. I like to put plywood chunks on top of wood to help stop that or cross the grains with several chunks of wood. Again I like a big block of wood 4 x 8 or 6 x 8 and smaller ones on top for shims only. The front end can be a problem the axle can rock 2 ways when lifting a tire. I like to use the front support to lift because it is solid and dose not move when lifting the tractor. If you were to raise up the front first with the axles on the stands and then raised the rear it could rock or move some on the front axle pivot point. Just look at the tractor for your strongest points to lift with wide as you can. Be safe not sorry later. If using a bottle jack remember the small point that lifts can crack a block of wood and slip use 2 and cross the grains for more strength. Jacks are designed to be used on level solid surfaces. If the tractor is on a angle move it or just be aware you can have it shift when jacking it up. Mark H.

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

pic of hyd jack, Philip

06-23-2003 07:45:23

Report to Moderator

Re: jack points in reply to howard, 06-22-2003 18:41:36

Howard, Here is what I use on the rear axle. I use 2 of these adapters on 2 of my floor jacks. Contact me if you have any questions. Philip.

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

souNdguy

06-23-2003 06:02:20

Report to Moderator

Re: jack points in reply to howard, 06-22-2003 18:41:36

I'm gonna throw in my 2 cents as well... ( there's already a pile of change on the table as it is.. )

I personaly don't use bottle jacks for jacking my vehicles.. but then.. I've got a yukon and an big dodge ram... I'de have to have a lot of lumber to block that bottle jack, etc.

As for the comment that there is no safe place ont he tractor to use a bottle jack... I would think the front axle would be safe..... just have your jackstand ready to lower the load onto.
Floor jacks are fine... if you've got a floor.... some of us break down in the pasture.
Pretty much whereever I'm at, I use one of those 'tractor' jacks like TSC and other farm stores sell... looks like an old style bumper jack.... ratchet up, flip the lever and ratchet down....
Just chok the wheels, and have the stands ready.

As for concrete cinderblocks with hollow cells... a few things to consider. On end, and hollow they are at their weakest... They like to carry their load top to bottom.. if it is a filled block, or a solid concrete pillow.. I think you are fine... the hollow ones are a gamble.
Solid lumber would be a better choice, imho

soundguy

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Rob

06-23-2003 06:38:27

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: jack points in reply to souNdguy, 06-23-2003 06:02:20

Yep, you don't stand concrete, or hadite, blocks on end. You set the with them like they are laid into a wall, that's how they work and no other way. The cells are open on the top and bottom when properly set. On a soft surface like a plowed field it's best to have a surface under the block. A 2x6 or piece of plywoood is fine.
A 2x or such on under the bottle jack is the way to go. A wooden block under the axel or other surface is good to. Less likely to damage the jacked surface and less likely to slip then metal on metal. Holds true with any jack except maybe that railroad jack you use Guy. Those are great jacks but subject to laying over on you. Again, blocking is important as is the surface you jack from. The more stable the surface you jack from the better.
Besides that, the N has a way of moving to the side as you jack it up. Something to keep in mind. You jack that puppy up and you watch what is going on. If it isn't moving right you back off and reposition.

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

souNdguy

06-23-2003 06:52:17

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: jack points in reply to Rob, 06-23-2003 06:38:27

I agree. When i changed out my front rims last year, the neighbor came over and watched as I repositioned my jack a few times and wondered about that... My reply was that I didn't mind the extra 3 minutes work, as the tractor and myself were too important.

Yep.. that ratcheting jack is not the absolute best, as it leans under load.. but I've found that chocking the tires, and using a good surface, like some lumber help... that and keeping the jack stands handy to take over.

The main think I like about that tall jack, is the support area is wide, and slightly cupped.. I would think the bottom would fly out from under it before something slipped off the top.

It has other uses too... you can make a puller out of it.. ( fence tightening, etc.. )

SOundguy

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Willy-N

06-22-2003 21:51:11

Report to Moderator

Re: jack points in reply to howard, 06-22-2003 18:41:36

Get a Floor Jack it works better and can be used to slide the sections together if needed because it will roll. Get casted style 2.5 ton rated min floor Jack Stands to set the tractor on not the spread steel tube types. The bottle jack has a small contact point and base and can slip when using it on the rounded surfaces under the tractor. Lift on the front axle mount and rear axle tubes on the back end. You can lift with the center but it gets tippy when you do it so it is better to do one side at a time on the rear. Don't use concrete blocks they can crack easy and drop the tractor. Mark H.

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

buck

06-22-2003 21:18:59

Report to Moderator

Re: jack points in reply to howard, 06-22-2003 18:41:36

got to throw in a little info. here that has to do with what the others have said. Point 1 There is no place under your tractor that you should ever use a bottle jack. Use of these things put you in harms way in that you have to some extent be under the tractor to use them--Get you a good mechanics floor jack. Point 2 never use bricks,concrete block or the like to block up your tractor-They can suddenly crush-Get you some good quality jack stands-You will need 4 to totally support your tractor. Place the jackstands as far out on the front and rear axle as possible while not having them touch the tires.

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Rob

06-23-2003 03:29:47

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: jack points in reply to buck, 06-22-2003 21:18:59

OMG! My house is on concrete blocks! Are they gonna crush and my house fall to the ground?

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Lee

06-23-2003 14:36:42

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: jack points in reply to Rob, 06-23-2003 03:29:47

Just don't use your house to support your tractor and you'll probably be OK. If you have a wooden shed or outbuilding that would be more suitable for jacking up your tractor.

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Rob

06-23-2003 14:57:25

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: Re: jack points in reply to Lee, 06-23-2003 14:36:42

Shoot! Sometimes I wish I could get that tractor right here in the kitchen to work on her. I LIKE it when I have carb or distributor parts spread out all over the counter!

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Willy-N

06-23-2003 07:46:56

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: jack points in reply to Rob, 06-23-2003 03:29:47

You have a wood 2x6 or 2x8 on top of filled concrete cells with ancor bolts holding it from moving along with a aprox 2 ft wide footing and the forms are in a box design under the house and the load is not a moving load. Take a chishel and hammer and strike the center of a solid block and see what happens to it, do the same to a section plywood or across the grain on wood and tell me which you would like having support around 3-4000 pound above your body with. Mark H.

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Rob

06-23-2003 17:09:44

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: Re: jack points in reply to Willy-N, 06-23-2003 07:46:56

Got no problem with a center block properly used. Support a lot of wieght. Misuse it and you can tear it up and even get hurt. So what's unique about that?
Some guys are dangerous with a screwdriver. Doesn't mean no one should use a screwdriver.

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

MikeC

06-23-2003 04:40:07

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: jack points in reply to Rob, 06-23-2003 03:29:47

Your house has lots of concrete blocks spread out to take the weight. Simple physics 101, apply the same weight to a small area and you can crush the block.

Of course, it's your choice.

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Steve(OR)

06-23-2003 03:57:33

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: jack points in reply to Rob, 06-23-2003 03:29:47

I hope your sarcastic response does not indicate that you are seriously advocating the use of concrete blocks. I have seen them fail under a pile of lumber. A block used under a tractor would experience much higher pressure due to the small contact point than either my pile of lumber or your house. You should know better.

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Rob

06-23-2003 04:48:34

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: Re: jack points in reply to Steve(OR), 06-23-2003 03:57:33

I don't know about a 'small contact point.' I typically use concrete blocks and bricks, whatever I have. I normally use them with 2x4's and other bits of wood to avoid 'small contact points.' Like I said, when jacking and blocking one needs to think what he is doing and properly use blocks and supports. Concrete blocks are fine, strong and able to support enormous, loads when properly used.
And yes, when someone points out that nothing is fool proof and therefore should never be used I get what you might call 'sarcastic.'
As for floor jacks and this stuff about that being the only say to jack a tractor I say nonsense. That's great if your tractor only gets flats in your shop. Last time I had a flat it was just over 1,000' from the nearest floor. I used blocks (masonry and wood) and a bottle jack, properly supported the axel with an assortment of blocks (masonry and wood), removed the wheel, had it repaired, and put it back on and headed down the road.
Rather then unrealistically insist one can only use a floor jack one might discuss safe jacking and blocking methods using the jacks and mat'ls available in the 'real world.'
Fact is when a tractor is down on the job a floor jack and jack stands are often far from the best or safest method of jacking and supporting the tractor.
You should know better.

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Rob N VA

06-23-2003 05:48:10

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: jack points in reply to Rob, 06-23-2003 04:48:34

Rob- I agree with you that sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. And that includes using what you have to work with. I have used concrete blocks, bricks, bottle jacks, tree stumps, and all kinds of stuff to support a vehicle while I am working on it with the tires off. Has any of it ever failed on me? YES! Guess which ones? The bottle jack and the concrete blocks. Have I eliminated them from my arsenal of stuff in my garage that I use to support a vehicle? NO! Do I feel that floor jacks are way too heavy to tote accross the field to change a flat? YES! That's why I put em' in the back of the pick up and drive em' over there; along with my jack stands and a few SOLID concrete blocks to put the stands on once I have jacked up the tractor. DO I trust the solid concrete block? ABSOLUTELY NOT! That's why if I ever use a concrete block to support a vehicle, I have a back up, or two in the same area just in case one fails. I have had even the solid concrete blocks fail, and my life be saved by my "back up" support. While I agree that jacking up your tractor in the shop on the concrete floor is not always practical, I respectfully disagree with you that it is not the ideal and safest method. I will stick by my previous statement when I said a little common sence goes a long way when jacking up a vehicle. Nothing is more important than protecting your safety. Keep in mind that I do not mean to be disrespectful to you by writing this post, I am merely doing my best to share my expierence and knowledge on what I consider to be an important safety issue, and at the same time try to answer the original question. Respectfully, Rob N VA

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Howard

06-23-2003 06:39:27

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: jack points in reply to Rob N VA, 06-23-2003 05:48:10

I appreciate the advice about the use of concrete blocks and such,and have decided to purchase a floor jack. I guess what I specifically wanted to know is what are the jack points when lifting one wheel at a time? Front axle,rear axle? Both of these are high off the ground but seem to be the only option. I wouldn't have to ask this if I were dealing with a car or truck,but there is no steel frame around the tractor. Do I get a ton of wood and place it on top or underneath the jack so it will go high enough to make contact with the axle? This is my first tractor and I've only had it for two weeks. What I want to do is remove the front wheels one at a time so I can have the tires replaced. I have quality jack stands and will use them to support the tractor when the wheel is off.
Thank you,
Howard

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Rob

06-23-2003 06:28:01

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: jack points in reply to Rob N VA, 06-23-2003 05:48:10

Oh yeah. We are gonna use what we have. That's why we should discuss ways to make the job as safe as possible instead of ignoring the reality. Jacking is risky business that can't be avoided.
Acting as if we will always have a floor and a floor jack is unreasonable.
The heaviest jacking I was ever involved in was alligning a 250 ton generator with a 148 ton gas turbine. We had a floor but we didn't use floor jacks. It was all bottle jacks, pretty much like the bottle jack I used the other day; just bigger around. Bottle jacks properly used along with blocking mat'l properly used are entirely safe, proper and effective, all things being equal.

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Rob

06-22-2003 20:29:45

Report to Moderator

Re: jack points in reply to howard, 06-22-2003 18:41:36

Even small bottle jacks are 2 ton or plenty for any part of the N. Jack stands are important no matter what type of jack you use. Never bet your life on any jack, use stands and block the wheels. Today I jacked one front wheel to tighten the bearing with a bottle jack on a brick on a concrete block out in the lane. It only took a couple of minutes and I didn't have to remove the wheel so I didn't bother to block the axel otherwise.
A jack can be placed under the center axel support to lift the entire front end or both wheels. Either wheel can be lifted but again use jack stands or block it up so you don't go away and come back to find the load shifted and your jack isn't under it any more and you have to dig a hole to get a jack under it and...just use stands or blocks. Jack where you want with any jack you want just block it up properly before you start ripping into it or you stick a part of your body into harm's way.
One caveat, jacking the rear end up in the center is risky because the tractor gets tippy. If you jack the rear end with one jack in the center then block both rear axels before you remove a wheel. If you get both wheels off and have only a jack or support in the center then you are risking tipping the tractor off the center support, don't matter what kind of jack or support it is. The front isn't tippy like that.
Whenever you jack you have to consider just what it is you are doing. Think about it and take time to block and support. Jack stands, bottle jacks, bricks, timbers, floor jacks, blocks, woteva just keep it supported and don't let it get away from you.

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

MikeC

06-23-2003 04:35:53

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: jack points in reply to Rob, 06-22-2003 20:29:45

>>Today I jacked one front wheel to tighten the bearing with a bottle jack on a brick on a concrete block out in the lane<<

Never use a concrete block to support a jack. Because of the small footprint of the jack, a concrete block can shatter or crush. Since there is no rebar or other strength additive to concrete blocks, they are not suitable for use as a jack support. I don't advocate the use of bottle jacks except for an emergency. The footprint is small and they are tippy. Get a good floor jack and use it.

My Site

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Rob

06-23-2003 05:00:03

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: jack points in reply to MikeC, 06-23-2003 04:35:53

Like I said, a bottle jack and concrete blocks and bricks are fine. A guy can use either improperly. If you are jacking and your blocks fail then nothing lost. You should not rely solely on any jack to start removing parts. You should always block the load after it is jacked.
Relying soley on a jack for support is very risky in any situation.
I wouldn't rely solely on a floor jack to remove a rear wheel on an N. I would support the axel where the jack wasn't even carrying a load, floor jack or bottle jack.
Of course a concrete block has a right side up and if you don't know the right side up of a block you are taking chances. A guy can safely use concrete blocks and bricks to support a tractor. Usually that involves use of timbers and boards also. It's not tricky but it takes thought.
But then I might be overly cautious.

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Lone Wolf

06-23-2003 12:11:20

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: Re: jack points in reply to Rob, 06-23-2003 05:00:03

I guess everbodys got an idea as to what constitues a safe blocking method-HOWEVER-keep in mind Bricks and concrete blocks (especially hollow core types used in construction)have a way of failing without too much notice. I've had to haul out what was left of a guy who had a tractor fall on him. I've also seen a truck up on blocks fall and there wasn't a soul around. Concrete blocks (especially) and brick can fail. I use 6 x 6 or 8
x 8 timbers to provide a sturdy support for anything up in the air over me. It only takes one time to learn and one time to die.
Better safe than mangled.
LW

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Rob

06-23-2003 13:57:10

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: jack points in reply to Lone Wolf, 06-23-2003 12:11:20

Timbers are always preferable then stones for blocks. You don't get under a tractor to change a tire or tighten a hub nut.
Bottom line though, if, like this guy, you were only going to have one jack, your first and only jack, then a bottle jack is the better jack. It has more utility then a floor jack, it is safe when properly used (even though some people don't seem able to use one safely it's not the jack's fault btw), and it is more afforadable. No reason in the world a bottle jack can't be used on the N tractor, and a lot more stuff. I have both, and other jacks too. I pick and chose depending on a lot of reasons. I sure don't have to have a floor jack to change a tire.
And when using a floor jack you are still left with blocking the tractor before crawling under it.

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

Rob N VA

06-22-2003 19:25:42

Report to Moderator

Re: jack points in reply to howard, 06-22-2003 18:41:36

My 2 cents---I wouldn't use a bottle jack to jack up an N tractor for anything. My advise is spend a few extra bucks and get a decent floor jack, you'll be happy you did. Check the archives on where the specific jack points are, but I think a little common sence goes a long way when jacking up any vehicle. I don't mean that to sound condescending, or offensive merely an answer to the question. Hope that helps!---Rob

[Log in to Reply][No Email]

[Options][Printer Friendly][Posting Help][Return to Forum] [Log in to Reply]

TRACTOR PARTS	TRACTOR MANUALS

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home | Forums

Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy